Ithaca

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The island of Ithaca is a small island between the western Greek mainland and the much larger island of Kefalonia (only 3 km away). It is just under 100 square kilometers in size and has around 4,000 inhabitants. Unfortunately, many buildings on the Ionian island were badly damaged in an earthquake in 1953. Some of the inhabitants lost everything and emigrated, many to Australia.

The island of Ithaca is known from the legend of Odysseus (author Homer), who managed to find his homeland of Ithaca after 10 years of wandering and then, disguised as a beggar, killed the men who had been stalking his faithful wife. However, whether Ithaca is really the island described by Homer is not entirely undisputed.

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The island of Ithaca is relatively green. There are many pine trees, olive trees, cypresses and vineyards. Ithaca is not yet very developed for tourism. The island is ideal for hiking and walking. There are also some interesting archaeological sites and museums. Some smaller villages on the island are listed as historical monuments and have thus retained their typical Greek character. Worth seeing are, for example, the picturesque fishing village of Frikes and the village of Kioni, where most of the houses survived the 1953 earthquake. The highest mountain on Ithaca is the 800-meter-high Nirito.

The main town of Ithaca is Vathy. This is where you will find most of the hotels, private rooms and restaurants. But hikers can also find simple rooms to rent and taverns in smaller villages. Vathy has a very well-protected natural harbor. Tourism on Ithaca is underdeveloped for an island in Greece. Here you can still find peace, traditional life and pleasant contact with the locals. But you shouldn’t expect everyone to speak English or even German.

View of the main town of Vathy

The island of Ithaka (also less commonly called Ithaki) has an unusual shape. It is actually two islands connected by a headland. The capital Vathy is on the southern half of the island. A developed road connects the “south island” with the “north island”.

Ithaka is not really known for its beaches. Nevertheless, you can find some beautiful beaches that are not overcrowded even in the high season. Filatro Beach is not far from the capital Vathy. The fishing village of Kioni in the north of the island of Ithaka also has a good pebble beach. The insider tip is Gidaki Beach, not far from the capital. There is no road to the most beautiful beach on the island. In the season there are small boats that take holidaymakers from Vathy to Gidaki Beach.

Arrival, ferries and buses Ithaka

Ithaki has no airport. The nearest airport is the small airfield on the neighboring island of Kefalonia.

Ithaca can be reached daily by ferry from the mainland (Patras on the Peloponnese in summer with a catamaran and the nearby small town of Astrakos). In season there are also daily ferry connections to the neighboring island of Kefalonia and the island of Lefkas.

Map of Ithaca and surroundings

The island of Ithaca is the little brother of the large island of Kefalonia.

The strait between the two islands is only 2-3 kilometers wide.

The island of Atokos, just 10 kilometers to the east, has no year-round inhabitants. The same applies to the island of Arkoudi in the north.

The ferries to Lefkas do not go to the capital Lefkada, but to the nearby tourist town of Nidra on the east coast of the neighboring island. In the absolute high season, the ship operated by the company “Ionios Meganissi Shipping” travels between Ithaca and Nydri twice a day, and in the low season usually once. It is a car ferry, and the journey takes around 90 minutes.

The ferries operated by the companies Ionian Group Consortium and Ionion Pelagos Lines to Kefalonia travel more frequently, up to five times a day depending on the time of year. According to our information, the journey time between Piso Aetos on Ithaca (actually not even a village, just a ferry dock) and the small town of Sami on Kefalonia is only 30 minutes (distance around 12 kilometers). The information about the ferries is a few years old.

Unfortunately, we did not get much information about buses on the island of Ithaca. There does not seem to be any information on the Internet. The KTEL company’s timetable is unfortunately very sparse. The buses are intended for the locals (school buses), less for tourists. You can rent a car or moped on Ithaca or take a taxi. You can also rent a water taxi (boat). Most tourists take a taxi from the main town of Vathy to the ferry port to Kefalonia Piso Aetos. After arriving in Sami on Kefalonia, you have a better chance of getting a public bus to the capital Argostoli. Buses also run between Nidri on Lefkas and the capital of the island of Lefkada.

Top 10 Things to Do and See in Ithaca for Visitors (Tourists)

Vathy
The island’s capital, Vathy, is full of neoclassical buildings and narrow streets. Stroll along the waterfront, explore the Archaeological Museum of Vathy and visit the Folklore and Maritime Museum for insights into Ithaca’s history.

Hike to the Cave of the Nymphs
Also known as Marmarospilia, this cave is linked to Odysseus’ return to Ithaca in Homer’s epic. The hike is a little challenging, but the cave and the views over Vathy are worth it.

Kioni Village
This traditional village is known for its beautiful harbor lined with colorful fishing boats and seaside tavernas. It’s a great place for a quiet meal and the stone houses and quaint atmosphere make it picture-perfect.

Filiatro Beach
A pebble beach with clear, turquoise waters, Filiatro is popular for swimming and sunbathing. There are some basic amenities and the calm waters make it family-friendly.

Gidaki Beach
Gidaki is often considered the most beautiful beach in Ithaca and offers crystal clear waters and dramatic scenery. Access is by boat or a hiking route, adding to its unspoiled appeal.

Hike to Kathara Monastery
Located on a mountain near Anogi village, this monastery offers panoramic views of the island. It is a peaceful place with historical significance and is particularly known for its traditional architecture.

Anogi Village and Monolith
One of the oldest villages on the island of Ithaca, Anogi is known for its ancient monolithic rocks scattered throughout the area. The village church of Panagia has beautiful frescoes and is worth a visit.

Stavros and the Archaeological Collection
Stavros is a picturesque village with a small archaeological museum displaying finds related to Odysseus. There is also a statue of Odysseus and a beautiful viewpoint over the bay.

Boat tour around Ithaca
Join a boat tour to explore Ithaca’s coastline, hidden coves and neighboring islands. These tours usually stop at secluded beaches and offer the chance to swim and snorkel in pristine waters.

Local cuisine
Ithaca’s tavernas serve delicious Ionian dishes. Try local specialties such as “savoro” fish, traditional pies and local wines. Vathy and Kioni have a number of restaurants offering authentic Greek cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere.

More small sights

Piso Aetos Beach
Located close to the ferry port, this often overlooked beach has a peaceful, unspoilt atmosphere. It’s perfect for a quiet swim or a sunset visit after the ferries have departed.

Rizes Cave
Known locally as the cave where Odysseus hid his treasure, Rizes Cave is a mysterious and lesser-known site. It’s located near Anogi and can be reached after a short hike. The cave itself is small, but it holds a sense of history and myth.

Exoghi Village
A picturesque mountain village with only a few residents, Exoghi offers stunning views and a sense of isolation. The narrow paths lead to viewpoints, ancient churches and hidden ruins that feel like stepping back in time.

Afales
This secluded bay, with its azure waters and dramatic cliffs, is harder to reach but well worth the effort. Afales is relatively untouched by tourism, making it an ideal getaway for swimmers and snorkelers who want to enjoy a more private experience.

Pernarakia
A small beach surrounded by cliffs and only accessible by boat, Pernarakia offers complete seclusion. The turquoise waters here are perfect for snorkelling and the isolation creates a tranquil atmosphere.

Paleochora Ruins (Ithaca)
The ruins of this medieval settlement are hidden in a lush valley just a short drive from Vathy. With remains of houses, churches and ancient pathways, Paleochora offers a glimpse into Ithaca’s past and is a peaceful place to explore.

Sarakiniko Beach
Hidden and surrounded by pine trees, Sarakiniko is a small pebble beach with clear waters. Unlike more popular beaches, Sarakiniko offers a quiet retreat and is perfect for picnics and a relaxing day by the sea.

Olive Press in Kioni
This abandoned olive press near Kioni is an interesting piece of Ithaca’s history. Although no longer in use, the rustic building is worth a visit for those interested in the island’s traditional industries and architecture.

The path to Skinos Beach
A beautiful, scenic path leads from Vathy to Skinos Beach, passing through olive groves and shady pine trees. The beach itself is quiet and beautiful, with crystal clear waters that are ideal for a refreshing swim.

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