Small Cyclades

The Small Cyclades (also called the Small Eastern Cyclades) are a collective term for six smaller and about a dozen very small islands between Naxos and Amorgos. Four of the islands are inhabited: Ano Koufonisi, Donoussa, Iraklia and Schinoussa. Two other Small Cyclades are quite large but uninhabited: Keros and Kato Koufonisi. All the large islands except Donoussa are next to each other. Donoussa is about 20 kilometers further north. The Small Cyclades are rather barren, with hardly any forests. People live from tourism in the summer and from agriculture all year round. There is no mass tourism here, but more and more individual tourists are coming to this part of the Cyclades. Many say: Greece here is still the same as it was 20 years ago.

The town of Stavros on Donoussa in the Small Cyclades
Image: Farida – Fotolia.com

How big are the Small Cyclades?

The Small Cyclades are a group of small islands in the southern Aegean Sea, located between Naxos and Amorgos. The group comprises five main islands: Koufonisia (large and small), Schinoussa, Iraklia, Donoussa and Keros.

The sizes of the individual islands are as follows:

1.Koufonisia (large and small Koufonisi): The total area is about 26 km² (large Koufonisi is about 26 km², small Koufonisi only about 4 km²).
2.Schinoussa: about 8 km²
3.Iraklia: about 17 km²
4.Donoussa: about 13 km²
5.Keros: about 15 km², however this island is uninhabited and largely archaeologically protected.

Ano Koufonisi: The island of Ano Koufonisi (also Pano Koufonisi) is only about 10 km² in size and has about 400 inhabitants. It is the most populated island in the Small Cyclades. Ano Koufonisi is fairly flat, the highest mountain is about 100 meters high. Almost all of the inhabitants of Ano Koufonisi live in the port town of Hora.

About 10 people live in the second town of Koufonisi, the village of Finikas in the north of Ano Koufonisi. There you can stay in various guesthouses and eat well in inexpensive fish taverns. There is also a very simple campsite. Ano Koufonisi is known for its good beaches. You can walk around the island in about four hours.

Schinoussa: Only about 200 people live on the relatively untouristy island of Schinoussa. There are three small towns: Merisisi (the ferry port, only a few residents), Hora (the old main town, population around 200) and Messaria (around 15 residents).

By Charles Haynes –  https://www.flickr.com/photos/haynes/167211167/, CC BY-SA 2.0, Link

These places are connected by a road. Schinoussa is particularly suitable for holidaymakers who are looking for absolute peace and quiet and who don’t get bored so quickly. Some simple taverns and private rooms are available on Schinoussa.

Iraklia: The island of Iraklia (150 inhabitants, area 19 km²) in the south of the Small Cyclades has experienced a small tourist boom in the last two decades. Iraklia is currently the most visited island in the Small Cyclades. In the port town of Agios Georgios (place name also simply Limani, the Greek word for port, around 100 inhabitants) there are now several taverns and private rooms. Construction is still underway as the island is still overcrowded in high season. The main town of Iraklia (Panagia) in the mountains is much quieter (around 40 residents). Papas (414 meters) is the highest mountain on Iraklia and in the Small Cyclades as a whole. The most important sight on the island of Iraklia is the cave of Agios Ioannis (stalactite cave).

Donoussa: The island of Donoussa (also with an s, i.e. Donousa) is a little off the beaten track from the other Small Cyclades. While the other islands in the group lie south of Naxos, Donoussa is east of Naxos. Donoussa has around 160 residents and is 14 km² in size. In the main town (harbor) of Stavros (see picture at the top) you can find a few tourists in summer. They usually sleep in one of the handful of rooms to rent or on Kendos beach.

By Av-fuzzy  in Wikipedia in German – Self-photographed, CC BY-SA 2.0 de, Link

There is a hiking trail (about 6 hours) that goes around the island. It leads through all 4 villages that there are on Donoussa. Donoussa is quite mountainous (up to 390 meters high). 140 of the 160 inhabitants live in the port town of Stavros (also simply called Donoussa). Only 20 people in total live in the three other villages on Donoussa. Only 2-3 people live in Kalotaritissa and Charavgi, and around 15 in the also not particularly large village of Mersini.

Kato Koufonisi: The island is only temporarily inhabited by a few shepherds. In summer, however, there are excursion boats from Ano Koufonisi to the island. There are even two taverns on Kato Koufonisi for bathers in high season. Outside of this time, however, the island is uninhabited and cannot be reached by public transport.

Keros: Although quite large (area about 20km²), Keros is uninhabited. There are no ferries to the island. You therefore need your own boat or rent a boat with a driver to get to Keros. There is a small ancient archaeological site on the Cycladic island.

Connections

From June to September, the four inhabited islands are served almost daily by small ferries from Naxos and Amorgos. A ferry from Athens via Paros and Naxos docks on all four inhabited islands about twice a week all year round. In bad weather, however, one or more islands are sometimes skipped, so it is not uncommon to have to wait a few days for the next boat. In summer, more expensive and faster catamarans have also been sailing to some of the “Small Cyclades” several times a week for several years. Since the timetable for all ferry connections changes frequently, you should ask at a travel agency in Naxos or Amorgos. None of the islands have an airport. There are no buses on most of the islands; people usually get around on foot, as the islands are not very big. On Donoussa, a bus connects some villages and beaches several times a day during the high season.

Top 10 Small Cyclades

Beaches of the Small Cyclades for example

Pori Beach (Koufonisia): Dreamy lagoon with turquoise blue water, ideal for swimming and relaxing.

Livadi Beach (Donousa): A pristine sandy beach known for its tranquility and beauty.

Explore the cave

Rina Cave (Koufonisia): An impressive sea cave that can be accessed by boat or by swimming

Charming village of Chora (Koufonisia)

Stroll through the white and blue village with its cozy taverns, small boutiques and an authentic Cycladic atmosphere.

Hiking on Donousa

Enjoy a hike through the barren but impressive landscape. A highlight is the path from Mersini to Kalotaritissa.

Kastro (castle) on Iraklia

Visit the ancient ruins on Agios Athanasios hill, dating back to the Hellenistic period and offering magnificent views.

Snorkeling and diving

The clear waters of the small Cyclades are perfect for discovering the underwater world, especially around shipwrecks and rock formations.

Island hopping

Visit multiple islands: A boat trip between Koufonisia, Iraklia, Schinoussa and Donousa is a must. Each island has its own character.

Tavern “To Steki tou Nikou” (Schinoussa)

A local secret to try authentic Cycladic cuisine – fresh seafood and traditional dishes.

Panagia Church (Schinoussa)

This small, charming church is a spiritual center of the island and a lovely place to admire Cycladic architecture.

Sunset at Agios Giorgos (Iraklia)

An unforgettable view from this church, with the sea and the neighboring islands in the background.

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