Posted by Leros, located in the northern Dodecanese, is a medium-sized island with 64 square kilometers and around 9,000 inhabitants. During the military dictatorship until 1974, the island gained notoriety. There was a large internment camp for political prisoners here. Only in recent years has Leros developed as a tourist destination. However, large-scale mass tourism has not yet reached the island. The island of Leros does not have particularly high mountains by Greek standards, the highest elevation is just over 300 meters above sea level.
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Leros belonged to Italy until World War II. This is easy to see from the architecture. The town of Lakki was built by the Italians in the 1930s. The wide streets in Lakki, which are untypical for Greek islands, are particularly noticeable. In contrast, the main town of Agia Marina is built in the typical Greek island style. The classic, picturesque fishing villages of Alinda and Xirokambos are also worth a visit. Leros is quite densely populated, which makes hiking less interesting than on other islands. Nevertheless, the island is worth a visit. The people are hospitable and the guesthouses, room rentals and tavernas are good and inexpensive. The fresh fish in particular tastes excellent in many taverns. The sea around Leros is also good for diving. The castle near Agia Marina, built by the Knights of St. John in the 14th century, is worth seeing. From the castle you also have a fantastic view of the island.
Places on Leros
Lakki (also Lakkion): Wide streets and large houses characterize the townscape of Lakki. Large parts of the small town (about 2,000 inhabitants) were built by the Italians during the occupation. This is why Lakki looks much less Greek than most other towns in the Dodecanese. Lakki is the more important of the two ports on Leros. The War Museum is worth seeing (opening hours daily 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., admission around 3).
Platanos: Just four kilometers northeast of Lakki, but already on the other side of Leros, is the largest town on the island. The small town, together with the suburb of Agia Marina, has about 3,000 inhabitants. Agia Marina is the second ferry port on the island of Leros. The area around the harbor is the busiest on the island in terms of taverns, cafes and bars. Here is the Neromylos tavern, one of the best on the island. Platanos is the official capital of Leros. In Agia Marina is the Archaeological Museum of the island of Leros.
Xerokambos: In the small town of Xirokambos in the south of Leros there is a well-maintained campsite (Leros Camping). The quiet town has good beaches. Lots of snorkeling or diving in Xerokambos. A bit of a mix between a tourist town and a fishing village. Recommended!
Alida: Beach town a few kilometers north of Platanos. Good beach with shade, popular with surfers because of the wind. The Bellenis Tower with a small museum (local history museum) is interesting.
What to do on Leros?
Explore villages
Agia Marina: The charming main village with colourful houses, harbour tavernas and small shops.
Platanos: The traditional heart of the island with narrow streets and a relaxed atmosphere.
Lakki: Known for its unusual, modern Art Deco architecture from the Italian occupation.
Alinda: A quiet seaside village with a long beach and cosy cafes.
Visit Leros Fortress (Kastro Panteli)
This imposing medieval castle towers over the island and offers stunning views of the surrounding villages and the sea. The fortress dates back to the Byzantine period and is an important landmark on the island.
Enjoy beaches
Alinda Beach: One of the most popular beaches, ideal for swimming and relaxing.
Vromolithos Beach: A sandy beach with clear waters and a picturesque setting.
Blefoutis Beach: A quiet beach perfect for a relaxing day.
Xirokampos Beach: Particularly popular with snorkelers, with clear waters and rocks.
Visit museums
Leros War and History Museum: This museum, located in an old tunnel near Lakki, tells the moving story of the island during World War II, when it was the scene of fierce fighting.
Belleni Tower in Alinda: A small museum in a restored tower with exhibitions on the island’s history and culture.
Hiking
Leros offers numerous hiking trails that lead through olive groves, hills and along the coast. Particularly recommended:
Hike to Panteli Fortress: A short but steep hike with great views.
Routes in the south of the island: Discover secluded coves and unspoilt nature.
Eating
Leros is known for its simple but delicious cuisine. Must-try:
Gourounopoula: Grilled pork.
Fish and seafood: Especially the local specialties such as squid and octopus.
Savoura fish: Fish in a special sauce made of onions, raisins and vinegar.
Locally produced cheeses and freshly baked bread.
Take boat tours and island excursions
Lipsi: A nearby island that is ideal for a day trip, offering pristine beaches and an authentic atmosphere.
Marathos and Archangelos: Two small, remote islands that are perfect for a boat trip.
Visit religious sites
Agios Isidoros Church: This small chapel on a rock in the sea is an iconic photo opportunity. A narrow footbridge connects the chapel to the island.
Monastery of the Virgin of Kavouradina: A peaceful place with beautiful views, consecrated by the patron saint of fishermen.
Accommodation in Leros
In our opinion, you should book a hotel on Leros in advance on the well-known website Booking.com. There are around 50 guesthouses, holiday apartments, etc. listed here. Most accommodation on Leros is in Lakki (Lakkion) and Agia Marina. We really liked Vareladiko Studios in Alinda.
Prices start at under 30 euros for a room for 2 people in the low season. If you want to see a lot of the island of Leros, you should definitely stay 2 or 3 nights. On a day trip from another island, you usually only see 1-2 villages.
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Smalis Studios in Lakki was praised in a reader’s letter. The 7 nice apartments with balconies are right in the center of the village, not far from the harbor and the ferry dock.
Map of the island
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Leros is directly north of the populous island of Kalimnos. There are sometimes tours on Leros with small boats to small, uninhabited islands nearby. On Archangelos there is even a tavern called Stigma. The islands towards Amorgos such as Levitha or Kinaros also have no permanent residents and can also be reached on day trips. A few years ago Kinaros had 2 residents, and in 2000 Livitha even had 8 residents. Unfortunately, everyone has moved away. Seals, falcons, snakes (four-lined snake) and turtles live on the small islands. Politically, the islands belong to Leros. |
Ferries and flights to Leros
The island is easy to reach by ferry. There are daily ferry connections to Kos, Rhodes and Piraeus, the port of Athens. Ferries or smaller ships to the surrounding islands such as Lipsi, Patmos, Kalymnos or Samos are somewhat rarer. The majority of ferry connections are from Lakki. However, smaller boats in particular stop in Agia Marina.
➔ To book ferries within Greece, we recommend the reputable website Ferryscanner.com
Only smaller planes from Athens (daily, 50 seats), Rhodes and Kos (several times a week each) land at the small airport. However, there are charter flights from Germany to the neighboring islands of Kos and Samos and especially Rhodes. However, you should check beforehand whether you can get to the island of Leros by plane or ferry. There are no international flights directly to Leros. The airport is in the north of the Dodecanese island.
Buses Leros
There are a few bus connections per day on Leros between Xerokambos in the south, via Lakki to Platanos and Agia Marina. Slightly fewer buses go to Alida and further north of Leros. Car rentals are available in Lakki, Agia Marina and Platanos.
Snakes Leros
There is at least one poisonous snake and several non-poisonous snake species on Leros. The poisonous snake is the Asia Minor mountain viper, whose bite can have serious consequences for humans. It is essential to call an emergency doctor immediately! See: Snakes in Greece
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Comments
A reader:
HI Greece friends,
I would also like to make a comment about the great little island of LEROS!
The best place is the campsite with a diving base from PANOS SIDERIS Diving and Camping Club in Xirocambos.
The site is in the south of the island in the small fishing village of Xerocambos, about 500m from the beach, in a large olive grove, with shade for every tent, showers and toilets are clean and available in sufficient quantities. You can also rent two small bungalows with a fridge, shower and toilet on the site. Food and drink are provided with a grill and good Greek cuisine.
I had my best holidays on the island of Leros.
Leros is a small island, very quiet and tranquil, no mass tourism, easy to reach by plane via Kos, Samos or Athens, from there directly to the island. By car or camper van via Italy Patras -Pitaeos -Leros!
This island was great for me, as it is quiet but not without life. The residents are extremely friendly and helpful. There are small pensions and hotels all over the island. It is very nice in Xerocampos right on the beach in Efstahia’s apartment.
I particularly liked the quaint taverns, they can be found in every village, all are very clean and offer excellent food. It was particularly delicious at Zorbas on Pantelli beach with a view of the moon. I ate the most delicious ice cream at the Parteni market, with a great view of the castle of Leros.
I explored the entire island on a rented Vespa (which is recommended), there are deserted beaches everywhere, of which there are quite a few, each one was very attractive in its own way. Most of them are narrow, they are pebble and sand beaches, in the west and north there are some sandy beaches, all of them have excellent water quality and only very few visitors who were just looking for peace and quiet. The only beach with a bit more life in the high season is around Alinda. At many beaches I was sometimes alone on the beach until early afternoon and felt a bit like Robinson Crusoe.
Well, if you like going to discos or shopping on holiday, you will miss this on Leros, but everyone else will certainly enjoy the relaxing peace and beautiful views.
There is also a lot to see on the neighboring islands, which are very easy to reach by boat, Kalymnos, the sponge diving island, or Patmos, the holy island.
The island of LEROS is a dream.
Reader Franz:
Leros is the most beautiful island you can imagine. I went there every year with my parents. The best is the Zorbas tavern in Panteli, with the nicest waiter there is. His name is Pedro and he looks really good too. The best food is at Dimitri’s in Alinda. You have to drive all the way through Alinda and it is the last tavern on the left. You absolutely have to try bourekakia with tzatziki here.
Reader Jürgen:
Jassou and hello!
We have learned to love the small island of LEROS.
Except for the barren northwest, the island is suitable for hiking, but hardly has any good beaches.
The villages and taverns are all the more typical. We had very good contact with the fishermen in Agia Marina and enjoyed the funny host Takis and his delicious food in the mill tavern. Of course, the Kastro (fortress) is the most striking point on the island. We traveled there for the big Easter holidays and experienced the festival in an unexpected splendor and with all its “oddities”. The Kastro was the “pilgrimage site” of the island of Leros and many neighboring islands. The priest dressed entirely in gold with a thick beard will probably always remain in our memories. We also recommend the small tavern “Finikis” right on the water in the village of Alinda.
In the beautiful fishing village of Panteli, rustic taverns, right by the small harbor, offer a welcome stop.
“Up” in the village, the tavern “Dimitris” is particularly recommended. The view of the neighboring islands is wonderful!
Up there is also the small Hotel Rodon and right by the harbor the Pension Cavos (approx. 20€).
Leros offers good connections to the islands of Patmos, Lipsi and Kalymnos!
Perhaps I have been able to make the island “appealing” to someone:
Many wonderful hours in our “promised land”
wishes Jürgen
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