Leros, located in the northern Dodecanese, is a medium-sized island with 64 square kilometers and around 9,000 inhabitants. During the military dictatorship until 1974, the island gained notoriety. There was a large internment camp for political prisoners here. Only in recent years has Leros developed as a tourist destination. However, large-scale mass tourism has not yet reached the island. The island of Leros does not have particularly high mountains by Greek standards, the highest elevation is just over 300 meters above sea level.
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Leros belonged to Italy until World War II. This is easy to see from the architecture. The town of Lakki was built by the Italians in the 1930s. The wide streets in Lakki, which are untypical for Greek islands, are particularly noticeable. In contrast, the main town of Agia Marina is built in the typical Greek island style. The classic, picturesque fishing villages of Alinda and Xirokambos are also worth a visit. Leros is quite densely populated, which makes hiking less interesting than on other islands. Nevertheless, the island is worth a visit. The people are hospitable and the guesthouses, room rentals and tavernas are good and inexpensive. The fresh fish in particular tastes excellent in many taverns. The sea around Leros is also good for diving. The castle near Agia Marina, built by the Knights of St. John in the 14th century, is worth seeing. From the castle you also have a fantastic view of the island.
Places on Leros
Lakki (also Lakkion): Wide streets and large houses characterize the townscape of Lakki. Large parts of the small town (about 2,000 inhabitants) were built by the Italians during the occupation. This is why Lakki looks much less Greek than most other towns in the Dodecanese. Lakki is the more important of the two ports on Leros. The War Museum is worth seeing (opening hours daily 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., admission around 3).
Platanos: Just four kilometers northeast of Lakki, but already on the other side of Leros, is the largest town on the island. The small town, together with the suburb of Agia Marina, has about 3,000 inhabitants. Agia Marina is the second ferry port on the island of Leros. The area around the harbor is the busiest on the island in terms of taverns, cafes and bars. Here is the Neromylos tavern, one of the best on the island. Platanos is the official capital of Leros. In Agia Marina is the Archaeological Museum of the island of Leros.
Xerokambos: In the small town of Xirokambos in the south of Leros there is a well-maintained campsite (Leros Camping). The quiet town has good beaches. Lots of snorkeling or diving in Xerokambos. A bit of a mix between a tourist town and a fishing village. Recommended!
Alida: Beach town a few kilometers north of Platanos. Good beach with shade, popular with surfers because of the wind. The Bellenis Tower with a small museum (local history museum) is interesting.
What to do on Leros?
Explore villages
Agia Marina: The charming main village with colourful houses, harbour tavernas and small shops.
Platanos: The traditional heart of the island with narrow streets and a relaxed atmosphere.
Lakki: Known for its unusual, modern Art Deco architecture from the Italian occupation.
Alinda: A quiet seaside village with a long beach and cosy cafes.
Visit Leros Fortress (Kastro Panteli)
This imposing medieval castle towers over the island and offers stunning views of the surrounding villages and the sea. The fortress dates back to the Byzantine period and is an important landmark on the island.
Enjoy beaches
Alinda Beach: One of the most popular beaches, ideal for swimming and relaxing.
Vromolithos Beach: A sandy beach with clear waters and a picturesque setting.
Blefoutis Beach: A quiet beach perfect for a relaxing day.
Xirokampos Beach: Particularly popular with snorkelers, with clear waters and rocks.
Visit museums
Leros War and History Museum: This museum, located in an old tunnel near Lakki, tells the moving story of the island during World War II, when it was the scene of fierce fighting.
Belleni Tower in Alinda: A small museum in a restored tower with exhibitions on the island’s history and culture.
Hiking
Leros offers numerous hiking trails that lead through olive groves, hills and along the coast. Particularly recommended:
Hike to Panteli Fortress: A short but steep hike with great views.
Routes in the south of the island: Discover secluded coves and unspoilt nature.
Eating
Leros is known for its simple but delicious cuisine. Must-try:
Gourounopoula: Grilled pork.
Fish and seafood: Especially the local specialties such as squid and octopus.
Savoura fish: Fish in a special sauce made of onions, raisins and vinegar.
Locally produced cheeses and freshly baked bread.
Take boat tours and island excursions
Lipsi: A nearby island that is ideal for a day trip, offering pristine beaches and an authentic atmosphere.
Marathos and Archangelos: Two small, remote islands that are perfect for a boat trip.
Visit religious sites
Agios Isidoros Church: This small chapel on a rock in the sea is an iconic photo opportunity. A narrow footbridge connects the chapel to the island.
Monastery of the Virgin of Kavouradina: A peaceful place with beautiful views, consecrated by the patron saint of fishermen.
Accommodation in Leros
In our opinion, you should book a hotel on Leros in advance on the well-known website Booking.com. There are around 50 guesthouses, holiday apartments, etc. listed here. Most accommodation on Leros is in Lakki (Lakkion) and Agia Marina. We really liked Vareladiko Studios in Alinda.
Prices start at under 30 euros for a room for 2 people in the low season. If you want to see a lot of the island of Leros, you should definitely stay 2 or 3 nights. On a day trip from another island, you usually only see 1-2 villages.
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Smalis Studios in Lakki was praised in a reader’s letter. The 7 nice apartments with balconies are right in the center of the village, not far from the harbor and the ferry dock.
Map of the island
Leros is directly north of the populous island of Kalimnos. There are sometimes tours on Leros with small boats to small, uninhabited islands nearby. On Archangelos there is even a tavern called Stigma. The islands towards Amorgos such as Levitha or Kinaros also have no permanent residents and can also be reached on day trips. A few years ago Kinaros had 2 residents, and in 2000 Livitha even had 8 residents. Unfortunately, everyone has moved away. Seals, falcons, snakes (four-lined snake) and turtles live on the small islands. Politically, the islands belong to Leros. |